By Totemworlds

I’m Totemworlds, a DIY-filmmaker and composer. My latest short film features some of the most fantastical shots I have ever designed. Here’s how I transformed my dull (and at times problematic) footage into something special, and how you can use Photo-editing software to drastically improve your shots.

When you’re working with average computers, video editing and rendering can be a tedious process. As a DIY-filmmaker I’ve learned that working in Photo-editing software (Photoshop or Pixelmator, etc) allows me to edit fine details in my shots more efficiently. It’s also a more affordable option if you can’t afford a set designer, special effects, or the perfect location.

Here’s a before and after to show you what is possible:

After (Click Here) / Photo by Totemworlds

Method:

1 Plan your shots

This technique comes with its own set of limitations. First, your shot must be completely still. During shooting, no moving objects can cross the area you’ll be editing. Notice how in the shot above, the moving subject is not crossing any of the areas inside the rectangles?

Fortunately, with a well planned shot you can fool your audience into thinking your subject is in a fantastical setting, doing a Yoga pose your average Joe can’t handle. Plan your shots accordingly to create convincing transformations, and use your creativity to turn these limitations into advantages.

2 Import a single frame of your shot into your Photo-editing software and Edit.

To make this shot look convincing, I had to first remove the ugly background. The goal was to make the viewer believe this was shot at a laboratory in the middle of the jungle.

Step one was during production. Again, it was crucial to plan the shot carefully so that it would be easy to get rid of the background by keeping it perfectly still and not having any objects crossing the area I was going to edit.

Step two was in post-production. I took a screenshot and imported it into Pixelmator. To take a screenshot on a Mac press Command-Shift-4 on your keyboard. If you are working on a PC, here are two ways to take a screenshot.

Once in Pixelmator, I deleted the background by selecting in with the Lasso Tool and the Magic Wand Tool. To blend the transparent egg carton in the center of the screenshot, I used the Repair Tool (this handy tool allows you to fix image imperfections such as scratches, blemishes, etc).

Then, to simulate the transparency of the egg carton, I used Brush Tool with the opacity set to 30%.

Photo by Totemworlds

Tip: Remember to take your screenshots in full-screen to preserve quality.

3 Export your file as PNG

In this technique, always export as PNG because that way we preserve the transparent areas (marked by tiny white and gray squares). A PNG file is much larger than the common photo file we know as JPEG, but it allows much more flexibility.

4 Import your PNG file into your Video Editing Software

Import your PNG file into your Video-editing software of choice, the program will allow images or video to reproduce within the transparent areas. Generally, the option to import is found in the Menu Bar under File.

Since I did all the retouching work previously in Pixelmator I was ready to fill the transparent area with an appropriate background. I imported a photo that is both visually striking and matched the kind of lighting of the original shot. With the background layered behind the edited screenshot, the shot started to look like it was filmed in the middle of the jungle!

5 Use effects for greater realism

Some useful effects to better blend both layers include Camera shake (to decrease dullness from having a still shot), Noise Grain (to blend everything together), Glow (to simulate lighting coming from the windows in this case) and even adding Flare or moving particles like dust to add more realism.

“Scorpion Pose” Case Study:

For this shot I used multiple sets of tools in Pixelmator to fix issues, retouch, and make the shot look more appealing. First I used the Repair tool and Copy-Paste to remove the table my foot was resting on. Then, I selected the entire left wall, flipped it horizontally, and pasted it onto the right side to make the shot more symmetric.

Tip: Use a soft eraser with 0% hardness to smooth out the edges of your selections.

It was necessary to remove the white towel on the floor (thankfully my subject didn’t cross that area) so I used a combination of the Repair Tool and the Clone Stamp tool for this, using the texture of the floor around my subject as reference.

Finally I added some effects: water refraction on the roof, a slight glare coming from above, some grain noise, and color correction for a dramatic effect! To see the finished result, find this shot between 19:08–19:11 of the film.

Working with Photo-editing software instead of video was a smoother experience which allowed me to be more precise with my retouching. I hope these techniques will encourage you to tweak and enhance your existing shots and make them more special.

Follow Totemworld’s work on Youtube and Facebook.

By Daria Huxley

Many commercial photographers working with brands and companies often need to take a picture of a white object, be it a piece of clothing, as accessory or tableware, — against white background. This is a standard practice that requires photographers to deliver photos ready-to-publish, specifically for company catalogs or websites.

In this tutorial I explain the lighting schemes and editing practices that will help you achieve best looking results.

Part 1. Shooting the White Object against White Background

First of all, you will need a shooting table where you can place your items, and two light sources, preferably with large soft boxes. Soft boxes are especially great since they create a nice looking soft shadow, which is ideal for creating some contrast between the item and the background.

You can use the lighting scheme presented in the image below.

Sample lighting scheme I use for small-sized product photography.

Place your camera on a tripod and photograph your item from a couple of different angles so you have variety. I typically set the ISO at 100 and have the aperture at 4.0, but this may vary depending on your subject.

For this tutorial I am going to be using an example of the lingerie piece I photographed for one of my clients. Original photo would look somewhat like the photo I had taken below.

After you are done taking photos of all objects you need and you made sure you got all objects from a couple different angles, it is time to edit the photos to achieve the desired look.

Part 2. Editing Photos of White Objects against White Background

The most important part here is to make sure the whites appear as whites on any screen as well as in print. For that reason we have to pay close attention to white balance.

Original photo of a white item on white background. ©2017 Daria Huxley

I do the main editing of my photos in Photoshop, but before that I do batch processing in Lightroom. In Lightroom you can make exposure correction and correct the basic white balance. See the intermediary result after editing the photo in Lightroom below.

Photo of a white item on white background with basic exposure and white balance adjustments in Lightroom. ©2017 Daria Huxley

After you made the basic corrections it’s time for the heavy Photoshop work. Note: you could do the basic retouching in Photoshop right away, skipping the previous step. I just prefer it that way because it fastens my workflow.

Now that we have our image in Photoshop, create a duplicate layer for the main image. We always want to have a “safety” layer, just in case we ever need to return to the imported original.

Basic layer structure for editing product shots in Photoshop.

After copying the layer, apply Levels adjustment layer. Use white color picker on the background — the program will automatically calculate the best exposure for your main white. Make sure you navigate a couple different places before picking up the best one. Also, make sure your object appears well lit and no details are lost in highlights.

Exposure correction via setting a white point through Levels adjustment layer.

After setting the levels we can now start working on the background. For this purpose create a mask of your secondary layer. Create a perfectly white layer just below the masked one — you have your ideal background hidden for now. Use Wand Tool to select the whites on the main layer, select the mask and then mask away the whites.

Photo of a white item on white background with levels adjustment layer applied and with cleaned background. ©2017 Daria Huxley

Here is what the image looks like with Levels adjustment layer applied and background removed. Now it’s time to do the shadow work, which is the most time-consuming part of the entire process.

Once again, select the mask and start working away with the large soft brush at about 15% transparency. Change the size of it according to the exact area you are working. In the end you get the result which looks approximately like this.

Final ready-to-use catalog photo of a white item on white background. ©2017 Daria Huxley

This process can be applied to any white or light object that needs to be photographed against the white background.

I hope you found this tutorial useful, and good luck to all of you in your work!

Fourwind Films’ blog

Method: